An Update from Vietnam, Two Countries Later

We’re a bit overdue for an update, so here goes (also, internet is too slow for photo uploads at the moment; "[photo]" to be replaced when we get to Manila now with photos!) :

Ho Chi Minh City

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City on 12/23 and Julia began learning about dodging motorcycles on the sidewalk. We quickly discovered Nha Hang Ngon, an amazing restaurant in a large French villa, where traditional street food vendors line the wall and every dish is exquisite. We proceeded to eat there three times in two days and later frequented its sister restaurant, Quan An Ngon, multiple times when we got to Hanoi.

A visit to the American War Museum was just as painfully moving as the last time I was there.

A day trip to the Mekong Delta to see a floating market and local crafts was forgettable.

Dalat

Dalat, a small city up in the mountains about 5-8 hours north of Ho Chi Minh City, is a popular domestic honeymoon destination and was my favorite stop the last time I was in Vietnam. This time, it more than lived up to expectations.

The cool mountain air was a welcome respite, but the real star was the night market. In addition to the produce, food, and clothing stalls in the town center, along the river was stall after stall of plants, including orchids, succulents, and bonsai trees. Julia nearly lost her shit.

While in Dalat, we sampled a few culinary delicacies. The first, che, is basically sweetened coconut milk soup with corn, black beans, tapioca, banana, or sweet potato.

The second was a little more, um, unusual: weasel coffee. It’s coffee made from beans that have been eaten and pooped out by a civet. Strange concept, delicious coffee. We tried some at a cute little cafe, with our cup expertly prepared by the owner, who also raises the civets and roasts the beans.

On our last full day in Dalat, Julia let me plan a little independent day trip, involving a boat ride across a lake, an elephant ride (Julia’s first!), a gondola ride, and a visit to a monastery with beautiful gardens.

Nha Trang

Our next stop was Little Russia...er, I mean, Nha Trang. This beach town was absolutely overrun with Russians, due to the fact that until 2002 it was the location of Russia’s largest international military base. We spent three days lounging under palapas, reading fiction, sipping cocktails, and marveling at the fashion choices of Russian tourists.

Hanoi

We really only had one full day in Hanoi, essentially using it as a jumping off point for Halong Bay and Sapa. While we were there, we managed to grab dinner with one of Julia’s former co-workers, Genessa, who currently works for the Center for Disease Control and Prevention in Vietnam. It was great to see a familiar/friendly face after three weeks on the road.

Halong Bay

Not too much to say about Halong Bay, other than that it is absolutely gorgeous. We also enjoyed sharing the trip with three travelers from Mexico City, with whom Julia, of course, immediately found many friends in common.

Sapa

The only negative of our two days in Sapa was having to do the overnight train on either end. On the plus side, it really gave us two full days, during which we trekked over 20 miles through small villages and rice terraces with our private guide, Dong, from Handspan Travel (HIGHLY recommended). The views on the treks were stunning; we couldn’t stop taking photos. We couldn’t decide who was happier: us, the local children, or the ducks, pigs, dogs, chicken, and water buffalo, all of whom roamed freely among the terraces.

Ok, we’re off to catch a bus and will be without internet for a few days, so the Singapore and early Philippines updates will have to wait.