Goodbye, SE Asia

I guess a 10-hour layover in Bangkok along the way from Saigon/Ho Chi Minh to Bombay/Mumbai is as good a time as any to catch up on my blogging and reflect on my time in Southeast Asia.

When I wrote my last post, I wasn't feeling too high on Vietnam, but my impression of the country began to improve in Nha Trang, a quickly growing city along the South-Central coast.

With the sky remaining overcast and most of Nha Trang's tourist activities focused on the beach and water, at first it didn't seem like there would be much to do.  Between a day cruise to explore nearby islands, a couple treks on foot into the city itself, and a surprisingly decent nightlife, I managed to find ways to fill the hours between meals.  Yes, the food has remained one of the highlights of my trip, as those of you who have seen some of the recent photos on my Flickr page can probably tell by the pound or two I have added over the past couple months.  But really, can any of you (non-vegetarians) blame me when you can get a breakfast like this for a bit under $1?

Surprisingly, my next destination, Dalat, ended up being my favorite stop in Vietnam, despite consistently having the worst food of any place I've been.  [Side note: my list of unusual animals eaten on this trip currently includes snake, rabbit, goat, crocodile, and ostrich.  All of them were better than any of dishes I tried in Dalat.]  Dalat is a small city in the hills, 6-8 hours north of Saigon.  It is apparently a very popular wedding/honeymoon destination due to its cool weather and the beautiful scenery in the surrounding areas.  Our first full day in Dalat, the Brits and I all rented motorbikes and decided to disregard Lonely Planet's advice by procuring a map and attempting to make do without hiring a guide.  As expected, we got lost numerous times and only made it to about half of the sites we set out for, but with the wind on our faces and stunning vistas around every turn, none of us minded at all.  The waterfall, lakes, valleys, and alpine slide were all nice, but really, the thrill of speeding along (I mean, "driving at a reasonable speed with appropriate caution") and taking in the sights along the road at our own pace was what made the experience.  Unfortunately, I managed to contract another cold with the same congestion and sore throat I had back in Thailand, so the next day was again spent in the hotel room nursing myself back to recovery.

By the time we got to Saigon, my health was back to about 70% and rapidly improving, quite a relief as I only had 2 days until boarding the plane to Bombay, and past experience flying during peak hay fever season taught me the perils of pressure change to a person with clogged sinuses.  Now, I'm generally an early riser, but my travel companions are decidedly not, so my first morning in Saigon was spent sending emails and making Skype calls in the lobby to family and friends.  By sometime around noon, everybody was up and we went and grabbed some breakfast at a nearby restaurant before setting out to explore the city.  Our first stop was Independence/Reunification Palace, a gigantic, open structure with ornately decorated but only mildly interesting rooms, only one of which actually inspired me to bother taking out my camera.

Alex was especially excited about our next destination, the Museum of War Remnants.  In the courtyard outside the museum were examples of the various tanks, planes, and guns used by the US during the war.  Although Alex disagreed, I thought that the exhibits inside, while clearly anti-American, were on the whole reasonably fair and did not reek of the blatant attempts at propaganda and revisionist history found in the Hanoi Hilton exhibitions.  The photography of many of the Agent Orange victims was both artistically excellent and morally horrifying.  Walking through the museum, two thoughts kept returning to my mind.  First, though I understand arguments for refusing to allow American officers and officials stand trial in international criminal courts for war crimes, we as a country did commit horrific acts during that war and our refusal (as far as I'm aware) to allow those responsible to stand trial in the same manner that we demand of human rights violators in other countries reeks of hypocrisy and undermines the legitimacy of our voice in standing up to others who commit similarly heinous crimes.  Second, it's impossible to ignore the parallels to our current conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan, and I wonder how the citizens of those countries will look back on what we have done 30 or 40 years from now.

Sitting here in Bangkok now, in same airport where two months ago I first set foot in Asia, gives me a nice opportunity to reflect on what I've learned and how I've changed since beginning my trip.  When I first arrived in Bangkok, I was full of nervous excitement.  Although I think I was about as mentally prepared for a trip like this as anyone could have been, I still had never been to this part of the world or traveled alone, so there was really no way to know what it would be like to actually experience.  Now I feel more confident and comfortable both with myself and with my ability to arrive in a new city or a new country and take the steps necessary to get settled and make the most of my time there.

Some of the other things I've learned while traveling in Southeast Asia:

• Any traveling I do in the future will almost certainly be with friends or family.  Being able to share an experience with somebody else makes it magnitudes more enjoyable.  I'm really glad I met Alastair, Martin, Nathan and Alex, as traveling with them for the last month completely changed my trip (for the better) and left me with memories that will last far longer than those I would have created alone.
• If you're trying to decide whether or not to do something, it's almost always better to do it (assuming the risk of long-term physical or emotional damage is relatively low).
• I'm now much better/more comfortable with haggling.  If there aren't posted prices, never accept the first or second quote you are given.
• Be very skeptical of anything a local tells you that is in any way related to you spending money, especially in a tourist area.  Even if they seem to be just trying to be helpful, 9 times out of 10 they will attempt to steer you somewhere that pays them a commission.  In my experience, Thais in particular are especially likely to flat out lie to you to this end, which is a shame because many of them are genuinely very friendly.
• It's OK to decide not to buy something, even if you've been talking to the person for a while.  If you suspect you might be getting ripped off, you probably are, so just politely but firmly get up and walk away.  The person trying to sell you something may be upset, but that's their problem, not yours.
• Everybody gets ripped off at some point.  When you do, try to learn your lesson but don't dwell on it.
• Tipping isn't expected at most restaurants, etc. in Southeast Asia, so if you do leave a tip, no matter how small, the recipient is usually very appreciative and will give you exceptional service if you return.
• Lonely Planet can be very helpful for general orientation and activities, but individual restaurant, lodging, and tour company recommendations frequently do not live up to their billing or cannot be found at the location shown on the map.  Fellow travelers are your best source of unbiased information.
• Get a good map and try to always have some idea of where you are on it so that you can navigate yourself to your destination.
• If you have to ask directions from someone, the more detail they give you, the more likely they are to actually have some idea of what you are saying and where you want to go.  Do not, under any circumstances, point in a direction and ask if it is the way to a certain sight or destination, as the answer will inevitably be an enthusiastic head nod.  If you then point in the opposite direction, you will receive an equally enthusiastic head nod.
• There are very few Americans on the backpacker circuit and more than half of the ones I've encountered have been from California (mostly the Bay Area).  There are TONS of British backpackers.
• "Fish and chips" means "fish and French fries," not "fish and potato chips."  "Tea" is "dinner," not "a light afternoon snack."  When talking about women, "fit" means "hot," not "in shape."
• If someone can't explain to me within 5 minutes the objective of a game and under what conditions it ends, I don't want to learn about it anyway.  Yes, cricket, I'm looking at you. Oh, did I mention I'll be staying at the Cricket Club of India while I'm in Bombay?  Sigh.
• I have fantastic friends and family.  OK, I guess I already knew that, but after my last blog post, I received emails from at least 5 people making introductions or suggestions for volunteer opportunities.  It's great to know that not only are so many of you actually reading this blog, but you care enough to take the time and effort to respond to what I've written.
• Well-maintained roads, the ability to access any website of your choosing, the Better Business Bureau, and the enforcement of traffic, vehicle emissions, trademark, and public health and safety laws are all relatively small aspects of life in the US that I had not previously appreciated to the proper extent.  As a frequently disillusioned liberal, I'm often aware of the many things we as a country get wrong.  Now, I'm starting to see and appreciate how many things we get right, or at least more right than most other countries in the world.
• Being a native English speaker makes backpacking SOOOO much easier.
• If I could do it all over again, I would spend much less time in Thailand.  As cheap as Thailand is by Western standards, it's probably 50% more expensive than either Vietnam and Laos, with no real advantages from my perspective.

Speaking of costs, yesterday I added up all my ATM withdrawals and credit card charges from the past two months.  Excluding suits and airfare (which I have not used within Southeast Asia), but including lodging, food, drinks, buses, boats, activities, and other incidental expenses, I have spent a bit under $30 per day since my arrival.  If I hadn't been traveling alone for the first month and hadn't massively overpaid through the official tourist office for my 10 days in Northern Thailand, it would have easily been closer to $20 per day.  If you travel with a friend, eat at food stalls and local restaurants at least half the time, consume minimal amounts of alcohol, and always go for the cheapest option available for lodging, tours and transport, you can do a similar trip in this region for under $20 per day.  I've had a fantastic time, and I strongly encourage those of you who've expressed envy or admiration of my experiences to seriously consider taking some time between jobs or before or after grad school and just get out there and visit a new part of the world.  And if you're on the fence or have any questions, you know I'd be more than happy to give you a call or respond to an email.

OK, that's a wrap!

India, here I come!